19 June. 2016 - Malibu - Free People
Photogs by Adam Bartoshesky
I arrived at the beach with no expectations. It was a Monday and I had just flown into LA from Australia, spending 14 hours amongst the clouds, dreaming of surfing my favorite spot — Malibu. There’s no better cure for jet lag than a splash in the sea, sliding along the waves in a spontaneous dance of cross steps and cutbacks and rippling ebbs and flows.
From the moment my friend Adam and I took our first steps in the sand, our eyes widened with delight. Without checking the report, we stumbled upon perfect, waste-high peelers, my favorite conditions for my singlefin log. The sun was warm and the water brisk, we paddled out in a frenzy and traded off waves with smiles spread across our faces.
“I know a killer spot for sunset,” enticed my local adventure comrade after a bounty of waves under our belts, “with smooth concrete if you want to have a skate.” I had just acquired a new Rally from local skate aficionados Arbor Venice and was eager to give it a go. A quick dry off and a 10 minute drive and we were cruising down the residential streets of Big Dume. Carving pavement instantly echoed the sensation of surfing and my stoke levels heightened once again. With the wind in my hair and sun on my face, it was a seamless transition from the watery, soul quenching wave dance from which I had just departed.